*303. Pampanga’s Churches: SAN PEDRO APOSTOL CHURCH, Apalit

APLIT, APALIT! A religious procession, possibly to mark Corpus Christi, wends its way to the courtyard of San Pedro Apostol Church of Apalit. Ca. 1927. 

The bordertown of Apalit, founded by Augustinians in 1590, is built on swamplands by the banks of the great Pampanga River. Its first rudimentary church was probably started by Fr. Juan Cabello, who served the town on several occasions between 1641-45. A new church was also begun by Fr. Simon de Alarcia of stone and brick, which was never completed.

The foundation of the present church was laid by Fr. Antonio Redondo, the town’s parish priest who had it built for P40,000 following the plans of a public works official, Ramon Hermosa. For seven years (1876-1883) and under Guagua foreman Mariano Santos, the “pride of Pampanga, an indelible tribute to Fr. Redondo and the people of Apalit”was built and inaugurated in a series of ceremonies on 28, 29 and 30 June 1883.

The good father actually saved P10,000 as he paid the workers from his personal funds and astutely bought the materials himself. When the masons ran out of sand and bricks, Fr. Redondo would solicit the assistance of the town people by asking the sacristan to ring the bells. This way, he gathered enough volunteers to haul in sand from the river.

The completed church measures 59 meters long and 14 meters wide. Dedicated to the town patron, St. Peter,the church is built along neo-classic lines, with a graceful rounded pediment marking its façade, topped with a huge rose window—in contrast to the simple Doric pilasters and the two rectangular bell towers with pagoda roofs.

Its signature dome rises to about 27 meters and is supported by torales arches, with openings to light the church. Protective grills capped the doorway as well as the 3 circular rose windows on the church front. The church interior was decorated by an Apalit native, a pupil of the Italian painter Alberoni.

The feast of San Pedro or “Apo Iru”, is celebrated with ardour every June 29, including a raucous fluvial procession (“libad”) along Pampanga River. The seated ivory figure of “Apu Iru”—an antique ivory representation of the apostle attired as a Pope—is transferred from its Capalangan shrine to the Church, where it stays during the fiesta days until it is brought out for the annual “limbun”. From there, the beloved Apu is installed on a water pagoda for the traditional river festivities, a unique honor given to their patron who has given much to Apaliteños—a town, a home, a church and a colourful history.

*197. APUNG IRU’S LIBAD BANGKA

OL' MAN RIVER. A grand pagoda bearing the antique ivory image of Apalit's "Apu Iru" wends its way on the Pampanga River, accompanied by a fleet of bangkas, bearing devotees and fiesta revelers in the annual fluvial procession. Before the advent of motorized boats, the Libad Bangka of Apung Iru was a quieter affair. Ca. 1965.

Every year, on the 28th of June, the ancient town of Apalit becomes a showcase of unabashed Kapampangan religiosity and revelry as it celebrates its 3-day fiesta in the grandest, wet and wildest manner. The Feast of the town patron, Saint Peter, fondly known here as Apung Iru, is marked with the usual religious rituals, capped by a colorful fluvial procession—Libad Bangka—that takes devotees on a raucous and even dangerous 6-hour journey of faith along the waters of Pampanga River.

The principal figure of veneration is an age-old ivory image of San Pedro, once a plain fisherman by the name of Simon Peter, who became one of Christ’s apostles and later, the first Pope of the Catholic Church. The seated image, based in Capalangan, shows St. Peter as a Supreme Pontiff, robed in papal regalia. It dates to the second quarter of the 19th century. In 2002, a fire razed its shrine, destroying the saint's original accessories —gold and silver keys, tiara, pectoral cross and emerald ring. But the image remained unscathed, and this fortuitous event was hailed as a miracle by residents.

The Apung Iru image is associated with the old Arnedo family, having been passed on to Dña Maria Espiritu de Arnedo, wife of Macario Arnedo y Sioco, who brought Apung Iru to Capalangan. To ensure that the cult is perpetuated, a corporation known as St. Peter’s Mission was put up by the Espiritu-Arnedo-Gonzalez-Ballesteros-Sazon families, which designates an official caretaker of the image--a camadero/camadera . Augusto “Toto” Gonzalez III is the current camadero of the precious heirloom santo.

The Libad Bangka was said to have been organized by Don Pedro Armayan-Espiritu in 1844, shortly after obtaining the image from his aunt. But such riverine rituals were not unknown in pre-colonial times, often undertaken by natives to appease angry river gods.

The traditional ritual process observed today starts with the “Pamandakit”, where Apung Iru is fetched from his Capalangan shrine and brought to the dome-shaped Apalit Church. Here, he stays for the duration of the fiesta, to be brought out in a land procession (“limbun”) led by the Knights of St. Peter. At Gatbuca, near Calumpit, the image is transferred to a small pagoda to shouts of “Viva Apu Iru!” by revelers on boats and along the banks of the river.

The first leg of the journey begins until the mini-pagoda, escorted by a fleet of brightly decorated boats, reaches the mouth of the great Pampanga River. The image is once again transferred to a grand “plancha” or pagoda float, already filled to the brim with avid devotees. More boats join the fluvial procession, until they number in hundreds, and as the water parade gets into full swing, revelers douse each other with water from the river. As the procession progresses, the atmosphere grows even more festive and wilder: in a state of frenzy, devotees shower each other with fruits, cooked foods, candies and viands in plastic bags, and more water.

The libad ends at twilight, and in Barangay San Juan, Apu Iru is conveyed back to the church through another “limbun”. A display of fireworks and an applauding, jostling crowd welcome back the image, born on the shoulders of the Knights of St. Peter. An all-day, all-night feasting follows, with Apaliteños opening their homes to guests and pilgrims to partake of their special menu of asado, menudo, embutido and other Kapampangan delicacies.

On the last day of the fiesta, Apung Iru is returned back to his Capalangan shrine, in a ritual known as “Pamanatad”. The riotous revelry on the Rio begins again. On land, the bunting-decorated streets leading to the Capalangan shrine are filled with people waiting to get a glimpse of the returning image. Emotions run high as Apung Iru makes its way to the shrine, with people clapping and cheering his name. Gradually, the din subsides, the town settles down as the devotees make their way back home, basking in the glow of another successful Libad Bangka, while counting the blessings bestowed by one who never fails them, their high and mighty patron, Apung Iru.

12. APO IRO: Pampanga's Wonder Worker

PAMPANGA’S MIRACLE MAN. Apo Iro’s postcards such as these, were sold in front of churches like estampitas. Here, he is shown dressed as a Constantino, complete with a cassock knee socks, cape and cross.

The origins of faith healing in the Philippines go a long way back into our pre-Hispanic culture—when mediums called babaylans and catalonans called on spirits to cure illnesses and plagues of all sorts. When Christianity was introduced, faith healing prospered even more, for now there are more deities to summon, more saints to come to our succor.

Our colonizers observed that Filipino natives were a credulous lot, ready to fall on their knees before anyone with wondrous cures for their ills. “In this way”, an American reports, “ were formed the numerous bands of outlaws that for the next few years infested Tagalog provinces….the result was that there appeared several alleged sons of Gods, Virgin Mary, at least 2 Popes and a black Jesus..”.

In 1886, for instance, Julian Baltasar, a Pangasinense-Ilocano also known as Apo Laki, predicted a global deluge, retreating to Sta. Ana island with his hundreds of believers. In 1901, fanatics in Cavite Viejo went wild over a Laguna faith healer who had stones reputed to be stained with the blood of Christ. “Espiritistas”, then and now, often shared similar mystical experiences, with reported heavenly visitations, inner locutions and paranormal visions, before heeding their calling. A result of these oracular moments is the power of healing.

Such was the case of Pampanga’s very own Pedro Danganan (originally Danan) of Sapang Bato, who achieved national fame as Apo Iro, ang “manggagamot ng Pampanga.” Pedro’s parents, Alejandro Danan and Eusebia Samonte, were from Angeles and Guagua respectively. It was, however, in Barrio Pamalatan, Lubao that Pedro was born on 15 February 1917. A month later, his father would die, leaving Pedro mired in poverty and poor health.

It was for the latter reason that Pedro’s mother took her frail son on a pilgrimage to the Antipolo shrine of the Virgen de la Paz y de Buen Viaje (Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage). While pilgrims crowded the shrine to pray to the Blessed Virgin, the unattended Pedro squeezed through the throng and forced his way up the altar where he tightly clung to the sacred image of Antipolo! While this act shocked some pilgrims, others proclaimed it a miracle, moreso when the child finally descended from the altar looking hale and healthy.

Thus began Pedro’s extraordinary transformation from a playful kid to a quiet child wont to introspection. Returning to Pampanga with health restored, he also left everyone in awe with his practice of gazing heavenward, muttering words, as if he were conversing with some deity. While playing street games, he started having visions of an ancient man with a flowing white beard, who pronounced him “blessed” and encouraged him to go on healing missions. To the amazement of many, he successfully tried his new-found gift on his mother, ridding her of her paralysis. Dropping out of school, the 12 year old Pedro, now reverently known as “Apo Iro”, embarked on a new career that would make him Pampanga’s and the country’s most celebrated healer of the pre-war years.

Active from the late 20s to the mid 1930s, his magic touch continued all the way to adulthood, healing thousands of people from as far as Ilocos and Bicol. From relieving throat pains caused by lodged fishbones to curing more serious afflictions, he healed people by the thousands – “gumagamot ng walang gamot, walang bayad” -- as one postcard caption proclaims. People would seek him before even going to doctors, unnerving medical practitioners who feared for lost business. As a result, they would often file complaints against him with the health department! One such case was filed by a known cirujano, eye doctor Carlos Simpao, resulting in Apo Iro’s imprisonment. Shortly after, Dr. Simpao started losing his eyesight which he regained only after a visit to Apo Iro, a “miracle” that fully vindicated the healer.

Apo Iro also advised the sick to strengthen their faith by lighting candles in honor of the Antipolo virgin, the icon that started it all. He was assisted in his healing ministry by his ayudante, Apo Loton. He achieved such fame that postcard images of him were sold like “estampitas” in front of churches like the Holy Rosary Parish in Angeles. The postcards show a long-haired Apo Iro, on the chubby side, with distinct feminine features, shades of the La Union visionary, Judiel Nava. He obviously enjoyed posing before the camera as seen from these staged scenes--one, in serene repose holding a cross and dressed in a knees-exposing pair of shorts and velvet cape; and the other, a composite picture of the “milagroso” on his knees before a painted Virgin Mary, much unlike contemporary Holy Communion pictures.

Enterprising neighbors cashed in on the influx of pilgrims by putting up shops that sold snacks, holy cards, candles and other Apo Iro-related souvenirs. There was even a booklet printed about his extraordinary life entitled “Buhay at Kasaysayan ni Apo Iro at ng Kanyang Mga Milagro”. Many remember the supernatural powers Apo wielded. He had the gift of foretelling the coming of rain. In one such instance, rain poured down inexplicably only on both sides of his house, leaving his neighbors wet while his yard remained totally dry. People not only waited in long queues to receive his blessings, but they also hid under the batalan while the Apo took his regular shower, hoping to catch the used bath water which they believed possessed curative powers. Apo Iro also caused religious santos like the Nazareno to animate and move; and it was also whispered about that he can make himself invisible to some.

It was said that Apo Iro’s magic touch came to an abrupt end when he succumbed to the temptation of the flesh and got married to Eufemia Camaya , much to the consternation of his followers who wanted him to remain chaste and pure. He fathered five children: Mamerto, Florencio, Corazon, Librada and Simeona. But according to surviving daughter, Simeona, her father’s powers never waned in intensity; he continued healing people by the thousands even in his married state, all for free.

The fact was, Apo Iro, like all human beings, was simply in love. Probably a bit tired from all the attention and wishing to lead a normal life, the contemplative Apo Iro retreated with his family to his old hometown in Guagua after the war. There, in between healing sessions, he peddled vegetables, blankets and other goods. His family also subsisted on the kind donations of his loyal patients who left food and gifts—never money-- at his doorstep.

The seer, who never experienced any other illnesses since childhood, also foretold his death, one day muttering –“Malapit na nakung kunan at i-uli!”--someone was about to get him and bring him home soon. When he died peacefully on 15 September 1957, strange events attended his death. Three white men visited his wake, and proclaimed to people present that the man lying in state was not dead. Apo Iro, before his demise, also gave strict orders not to have his body embalmed. Days after however, an uninformed mortician injected him with embalming fluid and when he did so, fresh blood spurted from his body. His death was covered by newspapers and his funeral procession was attended by thousands of people from all walks of life—from VIPs, government officials to neighbors, paupers and waifs—bound by a common extraordinary experience, of having been once healed and touched by Pampanga’s most acclaimed miracle man.
(7 September 2002)